Cheesecake crossed with an airy, light spongecake
Japanese Cotton Cake, AKA Wobbly Cake, AKA the lightest, moist and spongy cake that's GF, and the perfect summer-fruit partner (two recipes included)
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I was looking back at some of the gluten-free recipes that had the most interest on my Instagram, and this recipe from six years ago garnered more than most—partly because it’s cheesecake, but I think also because of how unusual it is in its bounciness and how it seems to defy gravity when it cools. And it’s notably not dry, the holy grail of gluten-free baking. But also, who can resist something called “wobbly cake” (“cotton cake” on the other hand doesn’t sound appealing whatsoever; perhaps something is lost in translation)?
For anyone who is entranced like I am by the bakery section in stores like H Mart or traditional Japanese bakeries, this cake might look familiar. It’s part of “Nanban confectionery”, or baked goods that were introduced from abroad hundreds of years ago, changed to reflect local taste, and are still made today. They are usually made in squares and sold in individual or long slices and look like perfectly-textured pound cake. The most common one is castella—kasutera—and originated from Portugal. In fact, this cotton cake looks very similar to the recipe for castella but is made with cream cheese and lemon juice and is a little more eggy than cake-y.
I’ve made a lot of versions this week (ten I think?), some with more cream cheese, or a higher proportion of egg whites folded in, or starting at different oven temps, but the following two recipes are the ones I landed on that give the most consistent results.
Why TWO? I’m including one for a taller, “bouncier” version because I can’t help myself and it’s the one I made six years ago; it’s wobbly, spongey, and even moister than the traditional version (it should be made in a springform pan since it has taller sides than a regular cake pan). The other one, “#2”, is a more traditional recipe with a closer texture, slightly more cheese, and a little lower; I love both. Neither are very sweet at all. If I had an editor, they’d probably insist that I choose one, but this way the choice is yours!
You can’t go wrong with either. Mind you—I have not been to Japan to try this cake in situ, and I’ve never found it in a bakery or restaurant, but that’s the case with most international cakes I’ve made.
Here’s a short video and some photos where you can see the texture of the higher egg white ratio:
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Here’s the cake that is closer to what is traditional. Tighter crumb, slightly more cheesy (recipe #2):
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Below is a video for reference to see stages of whipped meringue, and what the finished texture should be like. You can also see how I fold the two mixtures together.
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